Primers and sealers

help the paint adhere to the surface and make the surface more accepting of a topcoat.  Primers and sealers also prevent stains and tannins from bleeding through the paint.  These stain-blocking primers are particularly useful on “staining” woods such as redwood, cedar, and mahogany.  They also give a more uniform appearance to the finished paint job.

Sealers are similar to primers but are primarily used on new wood or masonry surfaces that have varying degrees of porosity.  Sealers keep the topcoat from being absorbed unevenly.  Most manufacturers offer a product that performs as both primer and sealer, so that you get the advantages of sealing and adhesion at the same time.

Always us a primer on new wood or any other surface that has never been painted.  It is also necessary to use primer/sealer when repainting a surface that is uneven or badly deteriorated.  A surface that has been stripped or is worn down to the original material must be cleaned and sanded and the primed.

To ensure an even gloss on a surface, even out the surface porosity by applying a primer, especially when using a primer will mean fewer finish coats, and a better end result.  Also, primers tend to be less expensive than finish coats, so by using a first-coat primer and one finish-paint coat, you may save money over using two finish coats.

USING DEEP-BASED PRIMERS

If you are going to use a dark color on your exterior, use a deep-tone base primer.  It is a mistake to believe that additional coats of the finish paint will provide the same result as an initial coat of primer.  Some colors are very clean and transparent, which means that you can put ten coats of paint on and still see through them to some degree if you did not use the correct primer.

For some colors, a different-toned primer is actually the way that the final color is”built”.  Having to use a different-toned primer has nothing to do with poor paint quality, which is usually blamed.  These colors are designed to use a specifically formulated base color that actually builds the color.  In many cases, this base color is not the same as the final color.  Do not be shocked if you want red and the manufacturer recommends using a primer the color of bubble gum.  Always follow the manufacturer’s directions for true color.

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Primers and Sealers

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For the most part, stain is the same as paint. It is composed of pigments and a vehicle, ingredients that perform the same functions as they do in paint. Both stain and paint provide protection and add color, but that is where the similarities stop.

Most of us notice the difference between paint and stain when we open the can because stain is always thinner than paint. When you apply stain, you will notice that it tends to soak into the surface, whereas paint sits on the surface, coloring the substrate, or to become part of the substrate as color. In contrast, paint sits on the surface, building a thin film.

Paint is often more expensive per gallon, is more time consuming to apply, and always should be applied over a primed surface. Paint tends to provide color uniformity, has various degrees of sheen, and has a broader color range.

However, stain has its advantages also. It is easily applied and recoated, and surface preparation is usually minimal. With stains, primers are not always required.

A few stains are meant for concrete, but most stains are meant to be used on wood. Many of today’s homes feature rough-sawn and textured siding and shingles to reflect natural looking, contemporary architecture treatments. Stain is the best choice for these types of homes because it dramatically enhances and preserves the natural beauty of the raw wood as well as the wood texture.

The beauty of a stain finish lies in its ability to accent the texture of the wood. Depending on which type of stain you choose, you may impart a definite color to the wood or merely tint it lightly, allowing much of its natural coloring to show through.

Stains are economical to maintain, and they resist cracking, peeling, and blistering when applied according to the manufacturer’s directions.

Does stain last longer than paint? There is a common myth in this country that stain is some kind of miracle product that never needs redoing. This is simply not true. If you read the manufacturers’ recommendations, you will see that stained surfaces need to be coated as often as painted surfaces, and with semitransparent surfaces even more often.

The advantages of stain vs paint are:

• No primer required

• Natural look

• Usually will not peel and chip like a paint film.

• Usually requires only one coat

The disadvantages of stain vs paint are:

• Fewer color choices.

• Batching of stain is more crucial.

• No choice in sheens–only comes in flat.

• Cannot be applied over painted surfaces.

• A highly absorbent surface may require more stain than you planned on.

OIL STAIN vs. LATEX STAIN
Most paint manufacturers offer stains in both latex and oil. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages. Latex stains are great for color retention, ease of cleanup, and application over wet surfaces. However, oils are preferred in restaining situations where the surface was originally stained with oil. Latex will not adhere properly over a surface that was previously coated with an oil stain, though you can put an oil stain over a latex stain.

SEMITRANSPARENT vs. SOLID STAIN
Semitransparent stains are usually used on decks, fences, and areas where you want to see the grain of the wood and even the original color. They are most widely used in situations where you want a rustic or natural look for the wood. It is important to realize that the color of the wood has a large influence on the finish color of the stain.

As mentioned earlier, semitransparent stain must be recoated more often than solid stain or paint. The reason is that ultraviolet light (UV) has a damaging effect on wood. UV light is the biggest factor in the deterioration of wood, and semitransparent stain offers much less resistance to UV light. Although semitransparent stain will preserve wood from drying out and checking (the cracking and opening up of the grain structure of wood). Indeed, in a dry climate after a decade of staining a surface, it will be nearly impossible to change to a lighter color because the cracks in the surface will be all to apparent.

Solid stains are usually used on the body of a structure and on surfaces where you don’t want to see the wood color or grain. Essentially, solid stain is like paint in that it leaves a solid coating of pigment on the surface. Solid stains are best used on surfaces that are not walked on or sat because these products have been known to come off when damp.

Black, gray, or brown spots or areas found on the paint film or caulk bead.

Possible Cause:

• Mildew forms most often on areas that tend to be damp, or receive little or no direct sunlight (e.g. bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms).

• Painting over a substrate or coating on which mildew had not been completely removed.

• Use of a low quality latex paint.

Remedies:

Test for mildew by applying a few drops of household bleach to the affected areas; if he suspected mildew turns lighter in color or is bleached away, the discolorant is probably mildew. Remove all mildew from the surface by scrubbing with a diluted household bleach solution (one part bleach, three parts water), while wearing rubber gloves and eye protection. Rinse thoroughly. To protect against future mildew growth, use a top quality semi-gloss or high gloss latex paint. Clean regularly with common household cleaners that contain bleach. Take steps to remove excessive amounts of moisture from the area, i.e. dehumidifier. For high moisture areas such as bathrooms, consider installing an exhaust fan leading to the outside of the home.

A common question asked by homeowners and contractors alike is how to achieve satisfactory results when touching up a wall or other painted surface.

Over time, most painted surfaces will require some amount of touch-up to correct any blemishes or repaired areas. Paint touch-ups will be effected by several factors during application such as:

· The ambient as well as the surface temperature which will have an effect on the coalescence (film forming process) of the paint film.

· Temperature of the paint coating. All paint should be stored in heated areas. Applying paint that is cold may have an effect on the gloss level.

· Method of application will have an effect on final color, texture, and sheen (or gloss). For example, if a paint coating is applied by spray, passing through the tip can have an effect on the color.  When applying paint touch-ups, if paint is spray applied, save a small amount of the paint that has passed through the tip for future touch ups.

· Use of a different application tool (such as a short nap roller or a different brush) when performing a paint touch-up will produce a different color, texture, and sheen (gloss.) Make sure to apply touch up paint using the same application methods and tools as used for the original application. Additionally, thinning the product with a small amount of clean tap water may help you achieve the proper opacity, coverage and hue of the chosen color.

Paint touch-ups is an industry-wide concern. Sometimes, the best solution would be to simply apply a complete coat of paint in order to achieve a uniform finish.

Paint Touch-ups

Your walls are in good, clean condition, but frequently washed areas around light switches, on doors, etc., are rubbed bare. Here’s a quick and easy solution—if you saved some of the leftover paint and it was water-based. You’ll need a new sponge brush.

Make certain that the area to be touched-up is free of soil. Then soften the new sponge brush by dipping it in water. Wring it out well, then dip it into the leftover matching paint. Start in the center of the base spot using a circular motion as if you were washing the area. Use just enough paint to cover the spot. Continue the circling motion spreading the paint and feathering it out until it meets and thins sufficiently to blend with the surrounding area.

Paint Touch-Ups can be difficult but save money in the long run.

• Be aware of the roof color. It is an item that most homeowners are not going to change until absolutely necessary. Don’t try to ignore the color, work with it to create a tasteful color scheme.
• Take natural materials on the house into consideration – brick colors, stone, slate, even concrete. Select exterior paint colors that will enhance these surfaces.
• Even the landscaping and terrain should be noted.

• Use 4 or more exterior colors:
1. Body or siding color.
2. Trim color.
3. Accent color – usually on shutters.
4. Punch color – usually on front door. Define the front doors, as the entrance or “introduction” to the house. Punch color can also be used on the mullions of windows.

Additional Paint Tips:

• Be kind to your neighbors – be aware of neighbors to your left or right. It is merely courtesy to consider how your exterior paint colors and theirs will reflect on the street scape itself.
• Utilize manufacturers’ exterior paint color cards. Most major manufacturers have taken care in laying out the paint colors in suggested combinations.
• Remember exterior paint colors intensify and look brighter in daylight on the outside of a house than they do on the paint color card in the store.
• Exterior paint color preferences are going lighter. Gone are the heavy browns, earth tones and murkey greens. Light to medium-value colors are in vogue.
• Soft contrast in color combinations are “in” with tone-on-tone trim and house body colors replacing the once popular light-body, dark-trim combination. The use of soft-contrast color combinations results in the house appearing larger.

As much as we’d like to caulk or spackle over a wrinkled or bulging tape joint, the proper repair is not so simple. The bond between the drywall and the paper tape has been broken, and there now exists an air space between the tape and drywall, so a new tape joint must be installed. The existing damaged drywall tape must be removed. The ragged edges on either side of the joint should be lightly sanded and dusted clean. A ‘bed’ of joint compound is laid down on the joint, and ‘feathered’ out about six inches on each side of the joint. A new strip of drywall tape is then installed. The new tape is smoothed out and lightly pressed into the joint compound with a spackle blade. Excess joint compound should be removed. The joint compound is then allowed to dry.

After sufficient drying time, a second and perhaps third coat of joint compound is applied over the paper tape, and ‘feathered’ out ten to fourteen inches to achieve a smooth, paintable surface. Light, touch up sanding may be required prior to painting.